Adventurer and explorer Paul Rose heads for Wensleydale as he sets out to explore the region, starting in the small town of Hawes, where locals now run many of their own services, including the buses. Paul checks out why cycling is so popular in the Dales and tries to get to the top of the Buttertubs Pass. Along the way he meets a family of dormice and spends time with a man who looks after one of the area's most imposing castles